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RENTAL PRESENTS: Lawn Aerating
How
to aerate your lawn to keep it looking beautiful:
How Do I Aerate?
Aerating is usually either done
with a Power Aerator (or Coring Machine) or a Manual (foot-pressed) Aerator.
The Power Aerator kind of resembles a conventional motorized snow blower
with the engine on top and wheels on the back or sides. The major difference
is that the Power Aerator has a circular wheel in the front or back with
hollow cylinders or spikes pointing out around the wheel. The manual version
will often have around four hollow cylinders on the bottom with a foot plate
on top for pressing into the soil, much like a shovel.
Manual Aerators are generally
for very small lawns or grass patches and can take a very LONG time to
complete a job compared to its motorized counterpart. Before we begin, let
me emphasize that If you have never before aerated your lawn, you may want
to think about a few things before you begin. Since almost all aerating
takes place with a power aerator, it is important to know that these are
VERY heavy machines and, if rented, typically may require two people to
transport. For those of you wish to aerate your own lawn, here are a few
guidelines to follow when you do:
1.) Aerators can be rented from
many rental service yards
2.) Prior to aerating, make sure
you identify any sprinkler heads and/or shallowly buried power lines,
cables, etc.. A good idea is to identify them with small yard-flags or other
easy to see markers so you do not run over and damage them while you aerate.
3.) If you have sandy soil,
lightly compacted soil, or have aerated your lawn previously in the year,
you will typically want to aerate with one single pass similar to a pattern
in which you mow. If you have highly compacted ground, clay soil, or haven't
had your lawn aerated in over a year, you will want to make two passes, with
the second pass at a different angle than the first.
4.) You will notice that while
you aerate, the plugs that are removed will lay on the ground. Don't worry
if they look a little unsightly, for you can either rake them back into the
lawn, or you can rake them up and remove them. By raking them back into the
lawn, they will typically break apart and dissolve back into the ground,
especially when watered. If you are either planning on reseeding or laying
sand on the ground surface, commonly done in the southern regions of the
U.S., following aeration, the plugs may be good to leave on the surface to
dissolve and help provide more ground cover. Either way, your lawn will look
better after the plugs dissolve. So either be patient, help break them up
with a rake to dissolve, or simply remove them. Remember, you're doing this
for the future of your lawn, not how it may look today.
5.) Once your lawn is aerated,
remember that this is usually a great time to fertilize your lawn and/or
reseed it. Now that aerating has created holes in your lawn and removed
thatch, it has also created excellent soil exposure, especially to the grass
roots. If you decide to reseed, follow-up by ranking the suspended seeds
into the soil, add fertilizer, and apply a light covering of matter and/or
sand.
6.) Once you've completed
aerating, try to water your lawn a few extra times, especially during hot or
dry conditions. As previously stated, aerating can expose your soil to a
greater loss of moisture during times of drought and high heat, so make sure
you replenish your lawn with water accordingly.
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When Should I Aerate?
When you should aerate typically
depends on the type of soil and grass you have. If you have a clay soil, you
should generally aerate twice a year. If you have sandy soil, you should
typically aerate once a year. If you have warm season grasses, late-spring
to early summer is in most cases the best time to aerate. If you have cool
season grasses, late summer or early fall is the best time. The following
are guidelines that will help you to determine when is the best time to
aerate:
1.) If you have clay soil, it
will typically compact easily and need to be aerated more often than other
types of soil and should be aerated twice a year (Spring & Fall).
2.) If you have sandy soil, it
will typically not compact as easily as clay soils, therefore you should
aerate your lawn only once during the year (Spring or Fall).
3.) If you are planning on or
reseeding your lawn, it is best to aerate just prior to doing so. This will
help allow the fertilizer, seed, and other nutrients to penetrate your lawn
and soil, thereby producing better results.
4.) Try not to aerate during
times of drought and high heat. Instead of helping your lawn, it may allow
moisture to escape the soil more rapidly and remove small layers of thatch
that can actually benefit your lawn. This moderate layer of thatch can help
to insulate your soil from sunlight and excessive evaporation.
5.) Avoid aerating your lawn
during times of weed problems. Aerating may actually help spread weeds by
causing weed infestation. Try to control your weeds prior to aerating.
6.) Try to water and/or dampen
your lawn one day prior to aerating. This will help soften the soil and
allow for better penetration by the aerator, thereby providing better
results.
7.) If you just planted a new
lawn and/or laid sod, it is best to wait until your grass roots are well
established to begin aerating. Aerating sod just prior to good root
establishment can actually pull-up the sod from the ground and create more
problems then it is worth. Additionally, pre-mature aerating can cause
excess moisture/water buildup and can prevent the grass roots form getting
enough air to grow deep.
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